Which fish to grill, sear or bake, telling when it's done, and cooking shrimp, scallops and mussels.
Firm, flaky and oily
Firm, meaty
- Examples:
- Swordfish, tuna, halibut, mahi-mahi, monkfish
- Best cooked:
- Grill, sear, roast. Holds together; tuna is often served rare.
Oily, rich
- Examples:
- Salmon, trout, mackerel, sardines
- Best cooked:
- Grill, roast, broil, sear skin-side down. Forgiving, because the fat keeps it moist.
Delicate, flaky
- Examples:
- Cod, haddock, tilapia, sole, flounder
- Best cooked:
- Bake, pan-fry, poach, steam. Falls apart on a grill unless it's in a basket or on foil.
| Type | Examples | Best cooked |
|---|---|---|
| Firm, meaty | Swordfish, tuna, halibut, mahi-mahi, monkfish | Grill, sear, roast. Holds together; tuna is often served rare. |
| Oily, rich | Salmon, trout, mackerel, sardines | Grill, roast, broil, sear skin-side down. Forgiving, because the fat keeps it moist. |
| Delicate, flaky | Cod, haddock, tilapia, sole, flounder | Bake, pan-fry, poach, steam. Falls apart on a grill unless it's in a basket or on foil. |
Is it done?
Fish is done at 145°F (63°C), when the flesh has turned opaque and flakes easily with a fork. Many cooks take salmon and tuna off earlier, while the center is still translucent; see the doneness chart for both.
Fish cooks fast and goes from moist to dry within a minute or two, so start checking early.
Crisp skin
- Pat the skin very dry and season it.
- Heat a little oil in a heavy or nonstick pan over medium-high heat.
- Lay the fish in skin side down, away from you, and press it flat with a spatula for 10 seconds so it doesn't curl.
- Cook without moving it until the skin is crisp and releases easily and the flesh is opaque most of the way up, then turn it for the last minute.
Shrimp, scallops and mussels
- Shrimp are done when they turn pink and opaque and curl into a loose C; a tight O means overcooked. That takes just 2–3 minutes in a hot pan.
- Scallops: pat very dry, sear in a very hot pan for about 2 minutes a side until deeply browned, and stop while the center is still slightly translucent. Pull off the small side muscle first.
- Mussels and clams: scrub them, discard any with cracked shells or that stay open when tapped, and steam with a little wine or broth, covered, until they open (5–7 minutes). Discard any that don't open.
Buying and storing
- Fresh fish should smell like the sea, not fishy, with firm flesh that springs back.
- Frozen fish, often frozen right on the boat, is frequently better than "fresh" fish that has traveled for days. Most "fresh" shrimp were frozen and thawed.
- Cook fresh fish within 1–2 days. Thaw frozen fish overnight in the fridge, or sealed in cold water for about 30 minutes.