Searing, sautéing, pan-frying and simmering: choosing a pan and oil, heat levels, and a quick pan sauce.
The techniques
Searing
- Heat:
- High
- What it's for:
- A deep brown crust on steaks, chops, chicken, scallops. A thin film of oil, food left alone.
Sautéing
- Heat:
- Medium-high
- What it's for:
- Small pieces (vegetables, shrimp, sliced meat) cooked fast in a little fat, stirred or tossed often.
Stir-frying
- Heat:
- Highest
- What it's for:
- Like sautéing, faster and hotter, stirring constantly. Prep everything first: there's no time once it starts.
Pan-frying
- Heat:
- Medium to medium-high
- What it's for:
- Cutlets, fish, breaded food in about ¼ inch (6 mm) of oil, turned once.
Simmering
- Heat:
- Low to medium-low
- What it's for:
- Soups, stews, sauces, grains. Small bubbles breaking the surface now and then.
Poaching
- Heat:
- Low
- What it's for:
- Eggs, fish, chicken in liquid that's steaming but barely bubbling, for tender, moist results.
Boiling
- Heat:
- High
- What it's for:
- Pasta, potatoes, blanching vegetables. Big, rolling bubbles.
| Technique | Heat | What it's for |
|---|---|---|
| Searing | High | A deep brown crust on steaks, chops, chicken, scallops. A thin film of oil, food left alone. |
| Sautéing | Medium-high | Small pieces (vegetables, shrimp, sliced meat) cooked fast in a little fat, stirred or tossed often. |
| Stir-frying | Highest | Like sautéing, faster and hotter, stirring constantly. Prep everything first: there's no time once it starts. |
| Pan-frying | Medium to medium-high | Cutlets, fish, breaded food in about ¼ inch (6 mm) of oil, turned once. |
| Simmering | Low to medium-low | Soups, stews, sauces, grains. Small bubbles breaking the surface now and then. |
| Poaching | Low | Eggs, fish, chicken in liquid that's steaming but barely bubbling, for tender, moist results. |
| Boiling | High | Pasta, potatoes, blanching vegetables. Big, rolling bubbles. |
Searing
- Take the meat out of the fridge 20–30 minutes ahead and pat it very dry: a wet surface steams instead of browning.
- Heat a heavy pan (cast iron or stainless) over medium-high to high for 2–3 minutes.
- Add a thin film of high-smoke-point oil; when it shimmers, add the meat, laying it away from you.
- Leave it alone until it releases easily and is deep brown, usually 2–4 minutes, then turn it.
- Thick pieces: finish in a 400°F (200°C) oven or lower the heat, and check with a thermometer.
Choosing a pan
Cast iron
- Best for:
- Searing, pan-frying, cornbread, going from stove to oven. Holds heat like nothing else.
- Avoid:
- Long-simmered acidic sauces (tomato, wine) in a newly seasoned pan; soaking it.
Stainless steel
- Best for:
- Searing, sautéing, pan sauces (the browned bits stick, then lift off with liquid). Dishwasher-safe.
- Avoid:
- Eggs and delicate fish unless you're generous with fat and patience.
Nonstick
- Best for:
- Eggs, pancakes, delicate fish.
- Avoid:
- High heat (keep it at medium or below) and metal tools.
Enameled cast iron (Dutch oven)
- Best for:
- Braises, stews, soups, deep-frying, bread.
- Avoid:
- Heating it empty on high.
| Pan | Best for | Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Cast iron | Searing, pan-frying, cornbread, going from stove to oven. Holds heat like nothing else. | Long-simmered acidic sauces (tomato, wine) in a newly seasoned pan; soaking it. |
| Stainless steel | Searing, sautéing, pan sauces (the browned bits stick, then lift off with liquid). Dishwasher-safe. | Eggs and delicate fish unless you're generous with fat and patience. |
| Nonstick | Eggs, pancakes, delicate fish. | High heat (keep it at medium or below) and metal tools. |
| Enameled cast iron (Dutch oven) | Braises, stews, soups, deep-frying, bread. | Heating it empty on high. |
Oils and smoke points
Every fat starts to smoke at some point, and past it, it tastes acrid. Match the fat to the heat.
- High heat (searing, stir-frying, deep-frying): vegetable, canola, peanut, avocado or refined sunflower oil.
- Medium heat (sautéing, roasting): olive oil, including extra-virgin, is fine for everyday sautéing.
- Low heat or flavor (finishing, eggs, sauces): butter. For searing with butter, start in oil and add the butter near the end.
A quick pan sauce
After searing, the browned bits (fond) stuck to the pan are flavor. Turn them into a sauce while the meat rests:
- Pour off all but a spoonful of fat. Over medium heat, cook a chopped shallot or garlic clove for 30 seconds.
- Add about ½ cup (120 ml) of wine, stock or even water and scrape the bottom with a wooden spoon.
- Simmer until reduced by about half, then turn off the heat.
- Swirl in a tablespoon of cold butter, add any juices from the resting meat, and season with salt, pepper and a squeeze of lemon or a little mustard.
Deep-frying safely
Use a heavy, deep pot filled no more than halfway with a high-smoke-point oil, and a thermometer clipped to the side. Most frying happens at 350–375°F (175–190°C). Fry in small batches so the temperature doesn't crash, and lower food in gently with a spider or slotted spoon.